Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 21 show was a comeback of multiple kinds. Jacobs hasn’t shown a collection since his spellbinding fall 2020 presentation circa February of last year,
Stepping inside Jacobs’s New York Public Library venue, the collective sense of joy was apparent. Smiles and hugs and even kisses were exchanged.
The press notes opened with a single word: ‘Happiness’. “On the journey back to doing what we love most, in the wake of immeasurable loss, loneliness, fear, anxiety and uncertainty, I am reminded of why creativity is so vital to our existence,” Jacobs said. “To life.” Having swerved the digital presentations adopted by many of his peers over the past 18 months, the designer staged his first Covid-era showcase on a real runway, with a real – albeit small – audience (all guests had presented proof of vaccination).
The show was also beamed onto the facade of Bergdorf Goodman for all of Manhattan to see, part of Jacobs’s efforts to create a “shared experience”, and offer a much-needed “moment of inspiration, curiosity, wonder and possibility”. Mission accomplished!
What we got was Marc Jacobs couture, a bold statement about the dynamism and allure of dramatic mid-century and, yes, Space Age-y proportions, filtered through an American sportswear vernacular and put together with an eye to the assemblage style and rule-breaking of Gen Z.
Beneath the snug beanies, inflated hoods and voluminous snoods, onlookers could discern the unmistakable features of the new-gen supers. Imaan Hammam’s camel skirt and chunky red roll neck with gently elongated sleeves was styled with prim ankle socks and platform Mary-Janes, while Gigi Hadid sported the shimmering paillettes that were a recurring theme of the collection that fused Jacobs’ punky Americana with the campy, retro-futuristic aesthetics of the Space Age.
The injection of shimmer, and a selection of flesh-baring cut-out bodysuits, nodded to our re-emergence wardrobes, but the collection also reflected fashion’s recent obsession with all things functional. Duvet coats were ramped up with bold prints and ample hoods perfect for anyone harbouring a secret desire to keep social distancing forever.
Elsewhere. XXL jackets were blown up to @itsmaysmemes proportions were worn with sequin disc studded sheaths and skirts, as well as ski-pants, with many looks finished with chunky woollen snoods, puffed-up shawls, headscarves and baseball caps. Jacobs’s celebration of joy and creativity manifested in graphic logos, geometric prints & a rainbow of colour and wearing this cocooning, exuberant collection, it’s hard to imagine you could be anything but Happy…
